Tuesday, December 9, 2008
It's Beginning to Feel A Lot Like Wanderlust
Monday, November 10, 2008
French Multiculturalism
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Today being a rare sunny autumn afternoon in Paris, I took the opportunity to take a stroll around Montmartre and to visit some of its most famous sites. First stop was the Basilic Sacre Coeur, one of Paris’ most famous attractions. It’s a beautiful Byzantine, white onion-domed structure, and has what is arguable the best view of Paris, as it sits atop Paris’ highest hill. Seeing as I’ve already visited the basilica before on my first backpacking trip across Europe when I finished high school in 2003, I didn’t bother to hang around with the hordes of tourists for long. Instead, I decided to check out some of the lesser-known sites of Montmartre, and wound up stumbling on a couple of gems that probably never make it into Lonely Planet. The most interesting site of the afternoon was St. Pierre de Montmartre, a church that’s located just a few minutes walk from Sacre Coeur but has very few tourists. According to the very helpful “Paris historique” sign posted outside the church, St. Pierre de Montmartre has been around since well before the year 1000, having been built on an ancient Roman temple (if I’m remembering correctly, it was a temple for Mars) and is one of the oldest religious buildings in Paris (the oldest being l’eglise St. Germain), but it was abandoned during the French Revolution, and was pretty much in ruins before a “radical restoration” at the end of the 19th century. Compared to the blinged out interior of Sacre Coeur, St. Pierre’s architecture seems a little Spartan, however its stained glassed windows are really special. I’ve never seen windows like them, they look like they belong to the cubist school (which makes sense because the windows were done in the first half of the 20th century), and look like they could have come straight out of a gothic Tim Burton movie. The windows tell the story of St. Pierre (a.k.a. St. Peter, the rock upon which the Catholic Church was built), including walking on water, betraying Jesus, and redemption.
Walking on water; notice the feet!
I’ve been told that people embarking on major tours of the churches of Europe should make it a point to brush up on their Biblical knowledge beforehand if they want to be able to truly appreciate the beauty and significance of the buildings, just as tourists of Greek and Roman ruins should familiarize themselves with classical mythology. I am not particularly well-versed in Biblical passages, but can remember enough from the days when I attended Mass on a regular basis to recognize the major events that normally make it into church décor (mostly the major events of the Gospels), but I often find myself wondering how non-Christian tourists view churches, especially those who are unfamiliar with the stories of the Bible.
There are so many clichés about Paris that I’m trying to resist falling victim of, but I’ve become a big fan of the café scene. There really is something irresistible about sitting in a café for a couple of hours, just reading the paper/a book and watching life both inside the café and outside on the streets, preferably with either a café crème or a vin chaud in your hand. Given the over abundance of cafes in Paris, I’m puzzled by the fact that every Starbucks I pass by is always packed beyond belief. Before I started working at a Parisian Starbucks, I figured that most people inside Starbucks were tourists who were probably looking for a little taste of home, but to my great surprise (and a bit of dismay), 75% of the customers appear to be French! I’m not knocking Starbucks, but I always thought that French people probably felt a similar disdain for Starbucks that they express for MacDonald’s. I’m still exploring the café options, but I’ve already got a couple of favourites where I’ve become a regular. They are the rare Parisian cafés that manage to combine a good location (in terms of both convenience and the view that they afford), friendly service (sometimes a rarity in Paris), free wifi (although they lose points if the signal is too weak, or if the café doesn’t have enough electrical outlets for plugging in laptops), a good looking clientele (it’s nice to think to yourself that if you’re a client there, you're good looking by association) and reasonably priced food and drink (once again, somewhat of a rare find in this city). I’m not going to name them here (I’ve got to be selfish and protect these jewels!), but if you come and visit me here, I’ll definitely show you how to find them.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Waiting on California
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Christmas in October
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
In other news, I've been in Paris for just over a month now, and to be honest, life here is a lot like life in Toronto: I wake up, brush my teeth, go to school, blah blah blah...the only thing that is remarkably different is that I've begun to shower in the morning instead of at night (this is a big change for a girl who has ALWAYS been a night time bather) and I tend to wear high heels a lot more here than I do at home.
Speaking of high heels, Paris fashion week (pret à porter for spring 2009) just ended. I didn't get to do as much fashion stalking as I had hoped to, but I did manage to convince a friend to come with me to the Tuileries for an afternoon to skulk around the tent where the Christian Lacroix show was taking place. While we didn't actually see anything inside of the tent, we did spot a number of très fashionable people wearing crazy high heels (photos to come), some very skinny girls (we assumed they were models or wannabe models), and some very well dressed security guards.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Picnic in the Park
While there, we were sitting not too far from a group of men who were having what appeared to be a stag party for one of their members. We had the pleasure of watching the poor guy get the worst makeup job I've ever seen, and forced into black stockings, a nun's habit, and handed a copy of the Bible, and a leather whip. It was quite a spectacle, although I'm pretty sure that if I were a parent, I would have covered my child's eyes. In any case, the man-nun actually seemed to be having a pretty good time (there was undoubtedly a good amount of alcohol involved), and he even asked to have his photo take with us, although he insisted that it be an all female shot.
Overall, things are going well in Paris... except for the petit problème that my computer repairman has just informed me that he can't repair my laptop...
Monday, September 15, 2008
Public Flogging or Intellectual Exercise?
Elsewhere, la vie continues to be très belle, although it would be nice if the laptop repairman would actually repair my laptop rather than telling me ''il y a un tout petit problème...''.
Friday, September 12, 2008
How to Fix a Laptop in France
Orientation began on Monday, and I have two preparatory classes for the next two weeks in order to prepare international students for their studies at Sciences Po: methodology and French language classes. I won't bore you with the details of the classes, but suffice it to say that the Sciences Po methodology classes are pretty intense. I enrolled in my fall semester classes on Wednesday, which turned out to be a bit of a disaster, and I wound up having to take classes such as 'French Intellectuals in the Public Space', and 'Enjeux politiques'...while I'm sure that they'll be interesting enough, these are definitely not the classes I would have chosen.
There's really not too much to say right now (This post is going to have to be on the short side since I'm not working on my laptop , and the keys on this french keyboard are in all the wrong places!), however one last mildly exciting tidbit is that I saw the Pope's motorcade this afternoon! I was sitting with some classmates at a sidewalk cafe on St. Germain des Près (right up the street from Sciences Po) for an afternoon drink, when suddenly the streets were all blockaded, and dozens of police officers were prowling the streets, a helicopter was hovering up above, and then the motorcade zoomed right past us. We were blessed with the Pope's exhaust! No Popemobile today, just motorcyles and black cars with tinted windows. Apparently he's in town for the weekend, and is giving a huge speech at Les invalides tomorrow afternoon; a few of us are thinking of going to try to see him, if only for the experience, and to be able to say that we saw the Pope in Paris.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
On one final note, although it's been five years since I was last in Europe, it's nice to see that some things never change: it seems that Parisian couples just can't seem to keep their hands off of each other, and everywhere you turn there are people practically falling over each other in the streets and walking into oncoming traffic, passionately engaged in the art of tasting each others throats.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Packing Up, Moving Out and On
Once I arrive in Paris, my number one priority is finding a place to live from October until June/July of next year. As of now, I have a room at a student housing complex for the month of September, but nothing set October 1st. I've been scoring the online ads, and so far I've emailed a lot of people, some of which seem kind of promising. I've set up a viewing appointment for the day that I arrive, but I'm definitely going to be conducting an intensive housing search once I get there. Housing in Paris is super expensive, but luckily the French government subsidizes student rent, which should take some of the financial pressure off.
Speaking of financial pressure, my second priority is to find a job as quickly as possible. Government subsidies aside, the euro-CAD exchange rate is pretty terrible now (currently, the exchange rate floats somewhere between 1EURO=1.55-163 CAD; just to give you an idea of how much the Euro has appreciated in value, when I backpacked around Europe five years ago, the exchange rate was something closer to 1EURO=1.30 CAD), so I need to start making local currency as soon as possible, otherwise I can see myself burning through my savings pretty quickly. As blech as I currently feel about it, I'm probably going to wind up working at a Starbucks in Paris for awhile, just until I get my Parisienne life going and can maybe start looking for something else a little more local/Parisian.
Even though I'm feeling an increase in my stress, I'm beginning to get excited. I'm looking forward to exploring Paris, starting new classes, and meeting lots of (politically-minded) young people from all over Europe and the world. Although I have steadfastly maintained that I am not a Torontonian (I'm ABSOLUTELY an Ottawan at heart), I do feel a twinge of sadness when I think about leaving Toronto. This was the first summer that I've spent almost entirely in Toronto, and I definitely developed a newfound appreciation for the city. Mostly though, I'm sad to be leaving behind some very good friends that I've made over the last few years.
On an entirely different note, my Asia trip was fantastic! This year my mom's brothers and sisters decided to throw a huge birthday party for their mom (my grandmother, obviously), which involved buying plane tickets for almost all of her grandchildren from around the world, and inviting 75 of her closest friends to a big dinner party in Hong Kong. After the party shindig, my mom and I headed to Malaysia for a weeklong vacation. We spent almost all of our time on the island Pulau Perhentian Besar, on the northeast coast of peninsular Malaysia. The food was mostly delicious (luckily no cases of traveller's 'stomachache'), the weather was almost entirely beach friendly (although the one night that it did rain, it was the most insane downpour ever), and it was nice to just spend some time with my mom, who I don't see
very often because she lives in Vancouver. The highlight of my trip was that I became a PADI-certified open-water scuba diver! This has been a goal of mine for quite awhile, so after four days of spending eight hours in scuba class, I'm finally licensed to dive! In the four dives that i completed, I saw a bazillion clownfish, lots of beautiful corals, a pair of sharks (!), sea cucumbers, and just about every kind of tropical fish you can imagine. It was very "Finding Nemo". I'm addicted, and I'm already planning on trying to make a trip to Egypt in the next year in order to go diving in the Red Sea...and maybe also see the Pyramids.Anyhow, there's nothing much else to write about at the moment. My next post will most likely be coming from the otherside of the Atlantic!
Sunday, July 13, 2008
The Inaugural Post

As of now I have a place to live only for the month of September. I'm going to be staying the Cite Internationale Universitaire de Paris (former student residence of Pierre Elliot Trudeau, who also happens to be a SciPo alumnus) in September, but come October 1st, I'll be put to the streets. SciPo doesn't have any student housing, so the great housing search for a long term place will begin in earnest when I get there. Since classes don't begin until the last week of September (I'm getting there early for a two week orientation session and language classes), I'm feeling mildly optimistic that I'll be able to find something, although I've been warned by many people that finding housing in Paris can be a nightmare.
There are approximately fifty days between now and when I leave for Paris, and it feels like there's just not enough time to get everything done! I'm currently finishing up one last class at UofT (which is unfortunately on the most deadly boring topic ever: statistics and political science research methodology), working as much as possible to save up for the year to come (the damn euro kills the Canadian dollar), packing up my apartment and finding a place to store all of my things for the next year, going through mountains of paperwork to get my student visa stuff worked out (French bureaucracy is infamous for a reason), planning my upcoming August trip to Hong Kong/Malaysia/Japan (I'm going to Hong Kong for my grandmother's birthday, and figured I might as well make the bazillion hour flight over a little more worthwhile by sticking around for a couple of weeks), and trying to maintain some semblance of a social life. Needless to say, there's a lot that needs to be done, and I'm feeling a teensy bit stressed.
There's not a whole lot else to blog about right now, but I'll probably have more to write about starting in August when I'm in Asia and then when making final preparations to leave Toronto. On a final note, I thought about titles for this blog for awhile, trying a variety of different Paris/travel related titles ("Ma vie parisienne", "A Canadian in Paris", etc, etc, etc...), but in the end I decided that "Steph at 24" was the most appropriate since this blog will essentially be about my 24th year of life that I'll be spending as a student in Paris, France. Okay, okay, I know I'm not turning 24 for a few more weeks (24 days to be exact!), but....whatever.